Building the Eun Mara "Skerry"
Painting the hull
These pages describe painting the outside of Skerry's hull, the last activity before the great "turning over". Early in my planning I made some decisions that affected my approach:
So, the overall approach would be:
These two shots show the CPES primer on one side, and the white ("out of the tin") Prekote undercoat on the other. As per Senseal's advice, the undercoat went on while the primer was not fully cured to enhance bonding.
I applied the Senseal with a cheap wide bristle brush - very easy. The fumes were bad in my garage (even with front and rear roller doors open), but I found a face mask with an organic solvent filter worked OK.
Applying the undercoat with a brush was very slow. Instead I applied it with a cheap foam roller, then smoothed it out with a good quality brush.
As per the suggestion on the tin, I mixed 10% of the green polyurethane top-coat with the second coat of undercoat. Easy enough to do, but in retrospect I don't think it helped the application of the top-coat.
I planned to apply two coats of Brightside "Sea green" top-coat. After the first coat (right side in the above picture) I decided it was too light for my liking. For the second coat (left side) I mixed in 10% Brightside black, which gave me very close to the colour I was aiming for. Also, as I did not want a high gloss finish, I mixed 25gm of "Norglass flattener" (a very fine silica powder) into the 1 litre tin, which transformed the high-gloss Brightside to a very pleasing (to my eyes) satin finish.
Here are both sides finished in the darker green, and the keel and sternpost done with Deks Olje. You can see how the Norglass flattener has softened the gloss. Again, the paint was applied with a roller and smoothed out with a brush as I went along. The waterline band is just Brightside black straight out of the tin (left side completed; right side marked out as described below). The sheer will also be done in DO, but not until construction is approaching completion.
In summary, the eventual sequence was:
Like most people nowadays, I assume, I used my laser level to mark the waterline; two traverses at different heights to mark the top and bottom edge of the strip. As I traversed the laser around I marked the spot with pointed pieces of masking tape. (The up and down points indicate the top and bottom of the strip.) The next step was to use the points as a guide for putting on the full lengths of masking tape, after which the pointed bits were removed and the paint applied.