This page contains a selection of photos from Bob L in Portland, Victoria, Australia, along with some of his comments.
5 June 2006 - Hull completed
12 December 2005 - Painting completed
16 January 2007 - Turning her over
6 November 2008 - Fitting out the cabin
These words are taken from Bob's comments on the Eun Mara discussion forum:
Hi Alec, great to get your news. Yes I am about to fit the brass strips, and yes it won't be too long, I hope, before the boat gets turned over. So, I think I hear you wondering, how can the brass strips go on without the ballast in place? Well, the ballast is already in place, and that leads me to explaining a few more things. I would like to place a couple of pictures on Richard's web site, if he doesn't mind, but basically I have chosen to build a modified centre-boarder, and I got this idea when I sailed on a Eun Mara some time ago with a number of changes including a modified centreboard arrangement. I cannot tell you any more about this boat because the owner has chosen to remain anonymous on a public forum, but I can tell you that the hull position and the under keel profile of my centreboard have been very well tried and tested. It is shaped like a quadrant, similar to Grey Seal, and pivots from the front on a 3/4 inch bronze pin mounted through the c'case and the lead ballast each side. It is also aerodynamically shaped about 53mm at the widest point, tapering to about 4mm, and is made from laminated ply, double sheathed with f'glass, with a chunk of lead inserted in the middle to weigh it down. Tot. weight is 34 kg. Inside the cabin, the c'case is 14 inches high off the cabin sole, and extends 34 inches forward from the main bulkhead. This is 2 inches longer than the galley and chart table as per plans, so these shelves are to be extended forward by 2 inches to match. This provides a step from the cockpit, or a seat which can be either straddled, or sat on facing outwards either way, using a hinged flap to make it easier on the butt. Feet can fit under either galley or chart table shelves. I have done a mock-up of this for knee position, head height etc., so hope it all works out.
The bunks are 2 inches shorter, but that is still OK for sleeping, and they can seat visitors with plenty of room for feet between the bunks. Rudder is the spade type as per plans except that it, like the c'board, is aerodynamically shaped, 1 1/2 inches wide tapering to 4 mm. Since the aft end of the keel and the entry of the rudder are both 1 1/2 inches as per plans, I have made the downtube also 1 1/2 inches O/D, S/S tube with solid ends welded in. The keel line and ballast position is the same as the plans c'board option, except that it is lead in 6 main bars, 3 each side of the protruding c'case, & each held with 2 x 1/2 inch S/S bolts, plus shorter pieces at each end of the c'case, bringing total ballast weight including the c'board to 314 kg. This makes the keel 7 1/2 inches wide at the ballast, and it is tapered evenly to 1 1/2 inches at the stern. At the bow end of the ballast, the width is tapered evenly to the bow, as per plans, but looking sideways, I have taken the liberty of adding up to 1 1/2 inches of timber so that there is a continuous curved profile running through from bow to ballast. I sent a plan and 10 photos of these changes to Iain recently, and it meets with his approval subject to a little more time for study. He sees it as an improvement on an earlier plan which was changed considerably after very helpful input from the blokes at Duck Flat Wooden Boats.
Here are Bob's comments about the painting:
"Antifoul. While the boat was still up-side-down, I reasoned that this was the best chance I was ever likely to get to do an antifoul, and although at this stage I don't really know how much the boat will be left in the water, at least it does provide the option. I wanted a copper colour to fit in with the general colour scheme, and something that would not require an annual repainting. There didn't seem to be anything on the market to achieve this, so I finished up mixing very fine copper powder with Bote Cote epoxy at about equal weights. I soon discovered that any more copper made the mixture too stiff, and that a throw away brush was better than a roller. This was applied in 3 coats, 7 hours apart, and then sanded back to reveal the copper colour. It is slightly patchy, but I'm very pleased with the final result, and especially when a bloke walked into the work shop and wanted to know how to fix on the copper plate. Just how effective it is, only time will tell.
Painting Firstly many many hours of sanding and filling. Paint used was International Prekote, 3 coats, followed by Int. Brightside 3 coats, except that I did not want the super gloss finish and on Richard Almond's advice mixed in 25 gm Norglass Flattener per 1 litre paint. This produced a pleasant satin finish & was just what I was after, so thanks a lot for that Richard. I did however include 10% Int. Brushing Thinner no.6, as the Flattener which is a silicon powder, did tend to thicken the paint slightly. Colour is a mix of Off White 2/3, and Bristol Beige 1/3. Application was with a 7 inch mohair roller with a short 5 mm staple so that it does not hold too much paint. Now you might not believe this next bit and I didn't at first either, but here goes. A friend of mine (whose partner was a professional signwriter for 13 years), advised following on immediately after the roller, using a small block of open cell, med.density, poly foam ( about 150mm x75mm to fit easily into one's hand ). Once having wet a surface of the foam block with paint, the technique consists of a rapid on and off patting action. This absorbs lines left by the roller and any potential runs, and leaves an even smooth coating, which rivals a spray job. It must be done straight after the roller, and it's better not to use too much paint, as 2 thin coats are better than one thick coat. My friend and I painted the whole boat in less than an hour and chatted as we went. I had previously intended using an old brush after the roller, but now I'm totally converted."
Here are the photos. I love that copper effect, especially with the brass strip. I'm glad my web-site comments re' flattening the gloss were useful. (Richard)
16 January 2007 - Turning her over
Well done Bob! Here are his pictures and the description of proceedings.
At last my boat has been turned over! It all happened last Sunday with the assistance of a few willing helpers from the yacht club. The concern was that the weight of the centreboard (34 kg), plus ballast (280 kg) already installed in the keel, (tot.314 kg), could take control half way over. So, I probably overdid it, but made 2 very strong cradles with 8mm scrap ply & 4" spacers, to embrace the boat at stns. 3 & 7.
Each cradle was then joined together across and under the building frame, as well as fore and aft, to make a unified whole fitting tightly around the boat. I cut the corners off one side of the cradle unit to make 4 equal lands so that we rolled the boat over in 4 stages at 45, 90, 135, and finally 180 degrees. This worked pretty well. The weight of the ballast didn't really kick in until after 90 degrees, which was much the same as with a small model I had made before making the big one.
Before the roll over, it was possible on my own to shift the boat and building frame to one side of the shed by jacking it up and rolling it over the concrete with pipes. Then on the roll over day, with the help of one bloke, we worked quietly on it for 2-3 hours to get it to the 90 degree position. We used 4, 1 tonne endless chains, (2 to pull and 2 to restrain), attached to the rafters, which fortunately we cleared with only inches to spare.
When the main group arrived, we had to pull the whole thing back (with the endless chains), towards the starting point a couple of times to avoid finally landing on the work bench on the other side. Then from 90 degrees on it was much easier being basically a controlled lowering, and the job was done!
Finally we relaxed with grins all around and a few nibbles and coldies to celebrate the occasion.
Happy helper!
Almost at 1st stage. The endless chain blocks got in the way a bit.
The boat is now at 90 degrees and still sits comfortably, despite the weight of the keel ballast.
This is pretty well the point of equilibrium. A piece of larger timber has been placed under the frame to help bring it over. That's me in the blue shirt at the back.
We are now lowering it down.
Easy does it.
A safe landing and grins all around.
This is the model before the turn over, and built from a photocopy of the plans. It was mostly to see how the weight of the keel would behave. The shape of the cradle was really an enlargement of this.
A shot taken from outside the shed. It was great to see the boat right way up at last, and to look inside and see the actual positions of cockpit, cabin, bulkheads, bunks and so on. Hmmnn, I think about 2000 hrs to go.
1. Platform around boat with stairway access.
This was extra work, but I have been up and down these stairs 1000 times. The hand rail is for safety & I pull myself up with it. The platform is so handy for accessing tools etc. I'll probably make a set of steps at the other end when building the cockpit.
2. Floors, logs, laminated frames completed. From stern.
The logs are larger (2" wide x 3" deep or to underside of sole.) than c'board plans because they needed to match the 7" wide keel below. See earlier description of keel & c'board. The 12 x 1/2" S/S bolts pass through the lead ballast & anchor into the logs. They are buried at each end with epoxy. See filled holes in picture. The load is then spread across the whole boat via the floors.
The laminated frames are made from 5mm thick strips obtained from Duck Flat W.B., alternating mahogany and hoop pine. The hoop pine in particular needed heating with the heat gun to take the bend, but I think it was used for both.
3. Floors, logs, laminated frames completed. From bow.
Same as above, but looking from the other way.
4. Fwd bulkhead Stn. 3.
In the fwd. buoyancy compartment there is a shelf between the circular openings at the bottom and the water tight hatches at the top. The removable w'tight doors can be placed inside for convenience when the need for buoyancy is minimal e.g. on the river.
The inwales are being glued in.
5. Reinforcing pieces ea. side of c'case.
These are the same dimensions as on the plans, 1 1/4 " square, though there is an extra horizontal member on top of the logs, all for extra c'case strength. On the question of c'case strength, the plans do include support across the f'wd end of the c'case between the bunks to stop sideways movement, and it has been pointed out that the lack of this support on my boat could cause sideways weakness. I appreciated the comment because it made me think. The plans also show that the c'case sits on top of the keelson. This was first pointed out to me by the blokes at Duck Flat Wooden Boats, and so I took their advice and extended the c'case all the way down through the lead to the bottom of the keel, or rather just short of it, to cover the end grain with epoxy. This gives vertical support for the c'case through ballast, keelson, logs and c'bd reinforcing pieces, which collectively totals 13 inches ! In addition, the c'bd pivot point is low, running across the lead below the waterline, and when the c'board is lowered to its max., the top of it is below the sole, so I believe any c'case sideways movement is totally contained. It certainly feels like it.
6. Half b'heads installed.
These are made with 9 mm ply sandwiched in the middle to finish 1 1/4 " thick ( thanks Alec). The curved corners of the caps were a challenge, but I managed it by cutting 10 wafers just over 1 mm thick on the band saw, and gluing them together progressively, 2-3 at a time, and using the hot air gun to coax the curve. The b'heads are in line with the front of the c'case, which makes them 2" further fwd than plans. i.e. galley & chart table areas are 2" wider than plans.
7. Berth framing & part b'head stn. 3.
The part b'head was made from 9mm ply. The fwd berth was divided into two mostly because it needed to be strong at that point to take the standing weight of a body climbing out the hatch. I accidentally used 1/2 " ply though which was an overkill.
8. Berth framing and sides installed.
This was fairly straight forward. I have a quantity of waste 3 ply which cost nothing, and use this to get the initial shape of areas like the bunk sides, and then mark the final ply +or - at various points for the finished fit.
9. Scoria in under berth space to measure volume.
I want to measure the volume of any compartment which may be used for buoyancy. Since 1litre = 1 kg of buoyancy, I hope to be able to calculate with some accuracy when the boat is completed, whether she will sink or swim if holed. So far :-
Bow compartment at stn. 3. = 240 litres
Under bunks 138 litres. ea side = 276 "
----
516 litres.
10. Completed fwd. berth compartment with hatch covers.
Hatch covers are hinged and w'proof to enable these spaces to be used as buoyancy.
11. Bunks before fitting tops.
General view similar to no.8.
12. Gen view bunks with tops & hatches. Chart table & galley completed.
A big jump here 4 months later. The bunk tops, 9mm ply, are in together with their hatches. The mattresses were cut from 4" high density foam, using the bunk tops as a template before they were glued in. They needed a slight recess in the underside to accommodate the hatches. They are yet to be covered and are not shown here.
The chart table and galley areas are basically finished in background. Next few photos show more detail.
13. C'case seat & step from cockpit.
The step down from the cockpit is at the same height as the c'case top /seat, extending each side along the main bulkhead, and is covered with black rubber matting. The step is also the top of a cupboard for storage of water bottles underneath, which is epoxied together to form a unit on each side. Each unit can be removed by undoing screws into the b'head & c'case sides. On each side of the c'case there are:-
2 x 10 litre blue c'tnrs ( One hidden next c'case) = 20 litres.
2 x 5 litre white c'tnrs. . =10 ''
30 litres x 2 sides = 60 litres
On our experience with camping we reckon this should be enough water for cooking and washing for 4 days. The idea is to dispense water from the 5 litre containers, as we do for camping.
The bilge space under the units can be accessed by removing a spacer between the sole and each unit. This is held by 2 screws (see picture), which then allows the sole board to be removed.
The c'case top/seat is held on the c'case with 8 brass screws, and cushioned with a strip of w'proof closed cell foam tape as described by Alan once on the forum. ( Thanks Alan. )
14. Chart table with plastic boxes extended out, & wash-up dish cover removed.
It took a lot of thinking time and trial and error to work out the best arrangements for the chart table and galley. I was really glad of that extra 2 inches. The large plastic containers come from our camping experience. One is for food (port side), and the other for utensils, soap powder, etc.(stbd side). They are both packed in the kitchen before a trip. Washing up basin is the fill-it & chuck-it system. The long container next to the bulkhead is for saucepans and any other items when the time comes.
15. Chart table with plastic boxes stowed.
Same as 14., but with boxes stowed and basin cover in place.
16. Completed galley.
On the opposite side (port), we have the double burner metho stove which I purchased from Maxie, the makers in Sydney. Metho is simpler & safer. It is mounted on gimbals mostly because I imagined myself down on the river comfortably tied up and cooking tea, when a motor boat goes speeding past. The vertical hanging strips were supplied, but not the hanging brackets, which were made from a S/S sandwich cutter.
The large plastic container is set further back than the stbd. side because it is higher. This provides space for my knees when seated .
The shelves on both sides and the vertical piece are made from 9 mm ply and are held in place with screws, so it can be dismantled if necessary.
17. Seating position at chart table.
You are meant to look past this male model and note that you can sit and write, wash up, or whatever else from here. It's OK, but perhaps not quite as comfortable on the butt as the other side, so one day I may put in a small hinged piece, will have to wait and see. A wider c'case seat would prevent removal of the large plastic container.
18. Seating position at galley.
This is a comfortable position for preparing meals or tending the stove.